Camping among the bears of Katmai

20 November 2025

At the end of June 2025, I finally flew to Alaska for the first time, embarking on the most adventurous trip I’ve ever taken: visiting Katmai National Park. Katmai is famous for its brown bears fishing for salmon at Brooks Falls. If you’ve ever seen that iconic documentary scene of a brown bear catching a salmon mid-air, chances are it was filmed right there. And that was my goal: to photograph a brown bear fishing along the Brooks River.

After all, there are two types of people who go to Katmai: those who love sport fishing and those who are excited to see the brown bears. So, expect to hear the classic question “Have you seen any bears?” quite often. But be careful, brown bears, not grizzlies. While there’s no genetic difference, the term "grizzly" refers to brown bears that live inland.

Given the park's remote location in southwestern Alaska, and the fact that it can only be reached by boat or plane, it’s impossible to get there by chance. I chose to fly to reach Brooks Camp, located in the heart of the park. Starting from Anchorage, I boarded a small aircraft to the small village of King Salmon, the western entrance to Katmai, where I then switched modes of transport and boarded a seaplane. In total, about two hours of flying, an experience that alone could have justified the trip.

At Brooks Camp, you’ll find everything you really need: a few lodges and a campground (strictly by reservation due to high demand), a restaurant, and a couple of shops where you can buy souvenirs, snacks, or rent fishing gear or a kayak. I spent four nights at the campground, which is surrounded by an electric fence to prevent unwanted encounters. It’s just a couple of minutes’ walk from the main part of Brooks Camp, along a trail that winds through the woods. To be honest, those two minutes felt much longer when I was walking the trail alone. The campground has a food and odor-proof storage area (for items like toothpaste and soap), a backpack storage area, a sink with drinking water, two bathrooms, and some designated eating areas. Eating outside of these areas is strictly prohibited. The campground’s two bathrooms have pit toilets and hand sanitizer, but those who wish can take a shower at the shared bathroom in the lodges.

From Brooks Camp, a trail leads to four observation platforms along the river, including the most famous one overlooking the falls. Given the possibility of encountering a bear along the way, it’s a good idea to make noise while walking and, if possible, travel in groups to signal your presence—bears usually try to avoid disturbing you. Speaking of which, I remember a curious incident: I was in a clearing, waiting to photograph a lynx, when I almost didn’t notice a bear sneaking across the road about ten meters away, desperately trying not to be seen. Mission failed: I quickly packed up all my gear and headed towards the safer observation platforms.

Aside from a full day spent exploring the Valley of Ten Thousand Smokes, I spent most of my time on the platforms. During that period, they were almost deserted: often, I found myself completely alone. However, I was never truly alone, as the mosquitoes kept me company, tirelessly. It's a good idea to come prepared with insect repellent spray or proper clothing to combat them. While I patiently waited to photograph the bears, I could practice capturing various birds fishing in the river or the salmon swimming upstream. At times, though, I found myself simply lost in the beauty of the landscape. The situation at the end of June is very different from July or September, according to the rangers' stories. They spoke of hours-long waits to access the platforms during peak season, but those were rewarded by a higher presence and activity of bears. Of course, bringing food onto the platforms is strictly prohibited, so I usually skipped lunch and made up for it with a hearty dinner at Brooks Lodge, chatting with fellow bear enthusiasts and fishermen.

The days spent in Katmai National Park were an unforgettable experience. I hope to return one day and explore another magnificent part of the park: Hallo Bay!

If you want to see more photos, visit the photographic section of Katmai National Park