Where Eagles Dare: First Backcountry Experience in Glacier Bay

12 July 2026

A humpback whale feeding along the majestic coastline of Glacier Bay.

Reaching Glacier Bay from New Haven in the middle of June was a long and tiring journey. It took more than a day of travel and three different flights to arrive in Gustavus, the small town at the entrance of the park. After a well-deserved night in a comfortable, traditional cabin, I headed into Glacier Bay. To make things more difficult, I had to set up my tent under a light rain in a surprisingly empty campground. But the real challenge was yet to come. A friend of mine and I were preparing to go into the backcountry: we were to be dropped off by a boat in the middle of the park, hike for two and a half hours, set up our tent in front of an astonishing view, and wait for the boat to pick us up at the exact same spot the following day. I spent the first day exploring the area around Bartlett Cove and attending a ranger-led walk, which is always an incredibly useful way to learn about the park's ecology. The second day, after being reached by my friend, was dedicated to the daily boat tour. It offered a spectacular view from the southern to the northern end of the park, up to Margerie Glacier, which unfortunately was hidden by dense fog. However, I was able to see several humpback whales, Steller sea lions, sea otters, brown bears, and many bird species—including my favorite tufted puffins.

A view of Margerie Glacier from the helm during our second daily boat tour in Glacier Bay.

I took this daily boat tour again a couple of days later—with much better weather that finally revealed Margerie Glacier—to be dropped off in the backcountry with my friend near Scidmore Bay, after attending the mandatory orientation to get our permit. Getting off the boat into knee-deep, icy water wasn't the most comfortable or reassuring experience, especially as we watched a kayaker being picked up after a day's delay due to bad weather. But the sight of several porpoises swimming around the bay right after the boat left us to our destiny completely reset our mindset. We could not even say that we were alone, given the billions of mosquitoes annoying us and forcing us to use our head nets. I do not think that I could have survived without that incredible invention, which was just as important as the water filter bottle.

A stunning glacier view along our route into the backcountry.

After hiking for about three miles—constantly looking at wolf and bear footprints and making plenty of noise to avoid surprising any wildlife while keeping our bear spray ready—we reached a beautiful spot with an incredible view of a glacier, and we decided it was the perfect place to set up our tent. Following the guidelines in Stephen Herrero’s book (which I had read just days before departure due to several recent brown bear attacks in national parks), we set up our cooking area and restroom at a safe distance. Then, we spent our time admiring the astonishing landscape around us, or at least what the mosquitoes allowed us to see. The exhausting day brought us to our respective tents quite early. However, around 4:00 AM, we were awakened by the sound of an animal chewing on leaves right outside. The unsettling thought of opening the tent only to find myself eye-to-eye with a massive moose discouraged me from leaving my comfortable sleeping bag. My friend shared the exact same feeling, so we stayed put and woke up at a more relaxing hour.

My tent assaulted by mosquitoes in front of an astonishing glacier view.

After taking pictures of the local birds, packing up camp, and having a quick breakfast, we went back to the meeting point, hoping the boat would return for us. As we stood there admiring the bay, the deep sound of a whale blow suddenly reached us, followed by the sight of two humpback whales feeding along the coast. While we were taking photos of them, a bald eagle landed on a rock just a few feet away, immediately harassed by a couple of black oystercatchers that likely had a nest nearby. Despite the wonderful views, we were happy to be picked up by our boat. As we cruised back toward Bartlett Cove, a humpback whale suddenly breached completely out of the water—a spectacular finale that made me gasp in sheer astonishment.

A close encounter with a bald eagle during our final moments in the Glacier Bay backcountry.

On my final day in the park, with my bear spray firmly attached to my belt, I hiked a portion of the beautiful Bartlett Lake Trail, which winds through a fascinating temperate rainforest. Catching glimpses of the towering mountains through the dense canopy of trees, I reflected on this magnificent journey, promising myself that I would one day return to this incredible, untamed land that is Alaska.

A hidden window onto the mountains of Glacier Bay, captured at the exact spot where the Bartlett River Trail branches off into the Bartlett Lake Trail.

If you want to see more photos of its wildlife and astonishing landscapes,visit the photographic section of Glacier Bay National Park.